Woodworking Tips from Pop…

Standard Bar Dimensions

You’re building a bar and you only want to do it once!

However there are a couple of guidelines that should be followed when it comes to building the cabinetry. Cabinet height and depth will be determined on whether you desire appliances or not. (No appliances  No Problem) Build whatever you want

If you want that cool kegerator or fancy wine cooler, you’d better start thinking of those specs. Everyplace that sells appliances will provide specification sheets (we call specs) with all the needed dimensions for building the cabinetry around the appliance. However, dimensions will vary for all under counter appliances, they will not exceed 24″ in depth.

 It’s always best to know if you’re adding features like appliances and light fixtures ahead of time. Some of these standard dimensions for bars and cabinetry can be very unforgiving, especially when it comes to adding appliances. It is very important to know exactly what you’re building before you build it! So when you are laying out the bar, make sure to have those specs.

Here’s a few standard dimensions the industry follows when it comes to bars

Finished back bar counter top height: 36″ off finished floor   This height is the same for kitchens and is compatible with all under counter appliances.

Finished cabinet depth: 24″…  Pop prefers 24 3\4″ finished. The reason behind this is that most appliances have the capability to accept a 3\4″ wood door panel. This can add a very elegant touch to a bar. However if you do not allow for this extra 3\4″, appliance panels might protrude out a little further than you want.

Finished cabinet width…   Cabinets can be purchased or built in almost any practical width.

Back bar height and width… The height and width of the back bar is always going to vary due too the size of the area. The larger the area, the larger the options! However, you do want to be careful in keeping the back bar in proportioned with the rest of the cabinetry. Drawing a ruff or detailed layout on the wall is a easy way to gauge proportioning of the overall bar. Crown molding is another factor in determining the height of the back bar. Depending on the ceiling height the back bar can be built right too the ceiling and crown molding installed around the top. Or, if the ceilings are high enough the back bar can be built shy of the ceiling leaving a space between crown on the back bar and crown on the ceiling. 

Stiles and Rails : 2″-3 1/2″… No system! Around the face frames of the cabinetry, 2″ wide is pretty much our standard and  4″ on the base. The stile and rails around the cabinet doors will be 2 1/2″ wide to 3 1/2 wide depending on the size of the doors.

Glass or wood shelving  : Displaying collectibles on open shelves is a great way to add personality to the back bar. Glass shelving should be a minimum of 3/8″ thick with polished edges and no longer then 3′ long. Widths can vary, but usually end up being no more then 10″ wide. Wood shelves are cut from 3/4″ plywood with a hardwood band that adds strength and covers the raw plywood edge.

Front bar cabinet depth : 20″-24″… Depending on appliances, try and keep larger appliances in the back bar if possible. The front bar cabinetry depth will have an impact on the overall width of your bar top.

Finished front bar top height : 42″ off finished floor… A bar stools seat sits approximately 30″ off the floor and a minimum 8″ of clearance is needed for knee room. The heavy bar molding in these pictures will consume the rest of this 42″ dimension.

Finished bar top width:  14″ Minimum … A dinner plate measure’s 11″ and you need room for a beer! Otherwise, Make it any size you want!

Bar top thickness: 1 1/4″… A bar top should be solid wood! Plywood is okay for anything under 8′, but it is very unforgiving if damage or scratched. On the other hand, solid hardwood can be repaired much easier and has a much more authentic look than plywood. Our process of engineering bar tops starts with  gluing up 4/4 stock lumber to the appropriate width. This sometimes takes multible steps. Bar tops can get pretty wide and unless you have access to a 25″ wide planer, you might have to glue up boards, plane them down and then re-glue to achieve the desired width. After the tops are dressed to 13/16″ thick. We’ll then seal the back side with a water resistant urethane and fasten a 1/2″ piece of plywood

Knee space along bar front: 9″ from the bar panel… This measurement can also vary depending on size of bar top